I also had a strong desire to create a weather proof outer garment that was not made of plastic. The thought that all the outdoor gear that we buy these days will remain on the planet for hundreds of years to come is quite an alarming one, and I wanted to make something that would last for as long as it was useful, but not still be here in 800 years time. If you take a look back in time, before plastic was invented, our ancestors worked in harmony with the earth, using natural materials that would go back to nature when they eventually came to the end of their useful life. For me, the endless glut of clothing made from plastic-based fibres is something that is completely unsustainable and I would like to be part of a movement away from that. I have always favoured natural fibres because of their superior intrinsic properties. Breathability, insulation, water repellence; these are all things that nature does incredibly well. And whilst I admire all the incredible work that has been done to try and emulate nature using manmade fibres, I still hold that we should be moving away from mass production of non-degradable products and looking to make clothing as it is required, using materials that will eventually return to mother nature in a non-harmful way.
I use sustainably sourced organic cotton, that is dyed, woven and waxed in Dundee using methods that have been specifically developed to have a low impact on the environment.
And I make each smock to order in my Lake District studio. This way I can keep wastage to a minimum and only produce garments that are required and will be worn and cherished, and perhaps even handed down through generations.
]]>What purer manifestation of hope could there be? Fresh, clean, and so beautifully innocent. Of course it is also a time when weeds burgeon and frosts threaten to destroy your autumn fruit crops, but the less said about that the better. Although I must admit that the weeds have been helping to rehabilitate me during my recent bout of covid19; a few minutes of gentle weeding being all I can manage for outdoor activity as I recuperate slowly in my solitary confinement. I have also managed to get my veg seeds sown in their trays and pots in my tiny garden shed. What a warm haven it is for me in there, and what a fabulously cosy place to incubate if you’re a seed. Before I fell into the clutches of the corona virus I had been setting forth with great vigour to tidy and prepare my garden for the forthcoming year. A recently felled hedge of Leylandii has had to be sawn into short stubby logs that will fit comfortably in my little log burner next winter; the recently felled shed must still be chopped into equally small pieces to fulfill as similar fate; and the brambles that had been left for far too many years, in my absence, really had to be bundled unceremoniously into the inadequately sized green wheely bins. I can’t deny that I had a rather spectacular crop of blackberries last year, but they were tainted by a certain shame that they had been gathered in my very own garden. Well not this year. The back garden is beginning to take the shape of an actual garden, and I have plans stirring in my head to move a few shrubs, take cuttings of others and to create a border that contains a mixture of flowers, shrubs, fruit and veg.
It’s a small cottage garden, and whilst it feels like quite a lot to look after sometimes, there isn’t really room to have a separate veg patch, especially considering the enormous magnolia tree that shades a large part of it from not only the sun, but also the rain. That section is home to the hostas and the dicentra. They don’t seem to mind their friend’s overarching rapaciousness. At this time of year though she does allow the nurturing light and the juicy raindrops to fall through her empty branches to the soil below. The wild garlic is more than grateful. I myself am not sure if the garlic should be encouraged. I think it might have got above itself, and that it might be time to slow its rampaging progress a little. I would like to see some lily of the valley under the tree, or perhaps some pretty white wood anemones.
]]>Here, I am going to take a brief look at the benefits and drawbacks of both natural and man-made fabrics.
I will begin with wool, which is not only a wonderful insulator, but it also has inbuilt waterproofing properties. It is an exceptionally clever fibre, that actually absorbs water into the filament which then warms up when in contact with a body. Wool can absorb a huge amount of water before it even feels wet to the touch. Not only that but it has exothermic properties, meaning that it positively gives out heat when wet. The Scots used to soak their plaids in the burns , wring them out and wear them to keep warm. If you think about it, wool is made to keep sheep warm and dry out in the fields. And they wear theirs in all weathers!
Although wool is surely the king of natural fibres, it isn't always ideal because of its bulk and it's weight when it gets wet. I think my grandpa would agree that wool is not the ideal material for making swimsuits! He'd know!
Another incredible insulator, silk can help to keep you warm, but also to feel cool when the temperature rises. It’s breaths, it dries quickly and its lightness brings with it a luxury that is impossible to synthesize.
Cotton, a cool, clean and breathable fibre. It is strong, hypoallergenic, non-toxic, biodegradable, absorbent, and magically, stronger when wet.
Cotton is an abundant fabric and has been used for centuries for apparel and bag manufacture, as well as for sail making. Waxing cotton for its waterproof properties originated at sea, when sailors originally used to wax their sails with fish oils to keep the cotton from getting heavy when wet. The offcuts and leftovers from the sail making were worn as capes, and eventually the fabric was used to make proper coats. As well as using wax to waterproof cotton, it can also keep out moisture when it is woven very tightly. Cotton fibres swell and make the close weave even closer to form a waterproof barrier. Thomas Burberry’s gaberdine fabric, patented in 1888, used the extra tight weave of a wool and cotton mix, the fibres soaked in lanolin before weaving, to create a light weight and water-resistant cloth. This was a particular godsend for the troops in the trenches during the First World War.
Moving on from Thomas Burberry’s textile developments of the 19th century, others began looking for ways to create the very fibres that the cloth was made from.
Manmade fibres have been developed over many years, in many ways to try to replicate the fabulous properties of natural materials, and if possible try to improve on them.
Early attempts to create a man-made ‘silk’ were made by a Swiss chemist named Audemars, and slightly later by Joseph Swan, who extracted cellulose fibre from the bark of Mulberry trees. The first commercial artificial silk was created by Frenchman Hilaire de Chardonnet. He named it Rayon. It became commercially successful because it was as much as 50% cheaper to produce than real silk. It has many similar properties to silk, in that it is light and pliable, but it is also washable and hard wearing in a way that silk may not be.
In 1931 Wallace Curothers, working for Dupont, discovered a way to make fibres out of waste from the petrochemical industry, and Nylon was born. Commercial production of this took off in 1939. It was used significantly in the manufacture of tents, ponchos, ropes, tyres and, of course, stockings during the second world war. A miraculous fibre at the time, it made production of all theses things, as well as clothing, possible at a time when supplies of the natural alternatives were difficult to get hold of because of politics and war.
In the early 1950s Dupont began production of Polyester, which has superior properties to Nylon, in that it is fully hydrophobic and holds onto dye more readily. Polyester has become widely used in the outdoor industry because of its water resistant and hard wearing properties. Man-made fabrics have come to dominate the market, because of their relative cheapness and, when it comes to waterproof properties, superior functionality.
The major drawback to most man-made fabrics though, particularly polyester, is that they are un-biodegradable. This is a failing that we can no longer ignore. Some of the more eco friendly and forward thinking brands of this world, including Patagonia and Klattermusen, are looking at ways to recycle and repair old outdoor gear and create a more circular process using these fabrics that will always be around.
In conclusion to my little assessment of natural versus man-made fabrics, I can fairly say that man-made fabrics are better options when it comes to price, weight and waterproofness, but that nature still knows best. When handled properly, wool can be incredibly warm, breathable and water resistant. Silk can breath, regulate your temperature, and feel more delicate and luxurious than it’s closest rival. Cotton and bamboo are light, breathable and versatile.
It seems to me that man is incredibly adaptable, and also very clever. If they found ways to make cheap fibres out of petrochemicals in the 1930s, then it seems like we should be able to find more sustainable ways of keeping warm and dry today. It is time to find ways to harness the power of nature in a more modern and forward thinking way. Nature has all the answers, and it’s for us to acknowledge them and find ways to harness them that are sustainable, and kind to the animals that give us the wool or the silk, and to the diverse environments that produce the cottons, hemps, bamboos etc.
I am a nature lover, so perhaps I’m biased, but I will always choose a natural fibre over a man-made one. For me the quality will always override the cost.
]]>I think that it has become more and more evident that the way we each live our lives can really, honestly have an effect on the future of this beautiful world that we call home. If each of us thought 'well I'm only one person, what possible effect can I have on the environment?' then nobody would ever achieve anything. It's the cumulative effect of thousands and millions of us standing up for a healthier planet, making our own efforts, however small, that will really bring about change.
Today I read a newspaper article about the throw-away society that seems to have become the accepted norm - people buying more than they need, throwing cheaply produced garments away once they've been photographed in them, and knowingly choosing not to care about the effect that this culture has not only on the workers who are being exploited in order to make these cheap clothes, but also the environmental impact that it is having. We're talking about not only cheap processes (dyes the are destroying local rivers, water diverted from huge areas of China to the industrial areas, badly built factories that the lives of staff at risk), but also the ever increasing mountain of clothing that is going into land fill. Many man-made fibres just don't degrade. Think about sports clothing, outdoor clothing. How long does a fleece take to break down for example?
Enough ranting (well, actually I don't think that's possible, but anyway...). Now is the time to look at practical ways that we can each live a more sustainable life, through our sartorial choices as much as by deciding to cut out meat for January. In fact, much could be achieved simply by changing the way we consume fashion. And I can't help but notice that a lot of it is a matter of going back to the old ways. Many people who know my style and design of old will know that I have a bit of an obsession with the old ways. I have always preferred to use natural fibres over man-made - they feel nicer for a start. And for a second, they have properties that people have been trying to recreate for years and years in man-made fabrics. The fact is that you will never be able to improve on nature. Wool, for example, is breathable, warm, showerproof, and hugely versatile. What could be better than that?! Silk not only feels exquisite against the skin, but it also breathes, keeps you warm, keeps you cool, and reflects light like it was conceived of in heaven. Time to check that contents label next time you're tempted....?
Another wonderful way in which we can do our bit for the planet is to consume less. Simple as that. When my mother was young she only had two outfits - school uniform and play clothes (she may be exaggerating for effect, but basically that's the gist of it). When we are constantly being told what trend to follow, and offered new delights from our favourite retailers, it can be very hard to say no. I'm quite lucky on the front because I don't really go near any clothes shops very often, so no temptation. How would it be if we invested more money in a garment that was going to really last - an heirloom piece shall we say? A perfect tweed jacket that you can call on any day of the week? A wool skirt that will never let you down?
And if you do get tried of wearing the same things, why not rest them in the attic for a year or two? Or swap them with your sister for a while? How about giving them to charity instead of the bin men? How about adding patches to the elbows? Or a spot of ostentatious darning (use a different coloured yarn to make it stand out)? You could even completely restyle your worn out blouse and turn it into a skirt or a shopping bag.... The possibilities are endless. Can you think of anything I've missed?
]]>As well as displaying our lovely new range of gifts and homeware, Ele will also be running a workshop at 12pm on the Sunday. You will have the opportunity to make your own leather and tweed Christmas tree decorations. To book on to the workshop, just follow this link https://www.rheged.com/event/leather-and-tweed-tree-decorations-with-ele-horsley-of-horsley-couture/
]]>You are most welcome to browse the selection at your leisure, and if I can be of any help then do just give me a shout. If there's a style you like but your favourite colour isn't there, then I'm sure that we can sort something out for you. Just ask the question!
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It doesn't have to be the scary thing that a lot of people think it is. Hopefully this little video will allay some of those fears of getting it wrong. Basically, as long the tape measure isn't so tight that there are bulges (!), or so loose that it sags, then that's a great start. It's important to remember that we add ease where it's needed, for breathing, sitting, eating and the like, so all you need to worry about is giving us your body measurements.
When it comes to the bust, it's the widest part that you need to measure. To find the natural waist, slide your hand down from the bottom of your ribs to the point that your hand hits the pelvis bone. Where your hand lands is where you measure. The mid hip measurement is taken 4" down from the natural waist - this measurement is for the tummy area. Then the hip measurement is taken 8" down from the waist. This is the widest part of your hips and bottom. Again, we'll add ease here, so keep the tape measure taut.
Then finally, to take a length measurement, make it easy for yourself by sending the beginning of the tape measure down your back so that your finger will be at the nape of your neck and lands on the number that you want. Same goes for skirts, but I'd measure that at the centre front if I were you.
Hope that helps!
Any problems, do give me a call and I'll do what I can to help.
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Trailing round the shops to try and find a beautiful garment in a perfect fit doesn’t seem like the best way to enjoy the excitement building up to the big day. For the discerning bride, or mother of the bride, a made to measure outfit is the chicest solution.
Made to measure means just that – we’ll take your measurements so that your finished garment will be a perfect fit. This means that not only will you be comfortable on the big day, but you’ll be feeling like the belle of the ball, confident that your outfit is flattering you in every way.
At Horsley Couture, we give you even more input into your perfect outfit. Choose from any of our elegant designs, in any of our selected fabrics, or even provide your own. This gives you endless scope for finding the right shade to flatter your complexion, or for colour matching to another item. We all know the feeling of falling in love with a pair of shoes or a bag, and thinking you’ll never find anything to match! Well now you can, and the possibilities are endless.
We want every woman to feel her best. So if you don’t see what you’re looking for, or you have a particular style in mind, why not get in touch? Tell us what you want and we will endeavour to make it happen. With all the designing and making experience gathered here at Horsley, we aim to make all your wishes come true.